WASHINGTON – Going to a spa for a Korean meal means trading in street clothes for a smock, swapping shoes for slippers, enduring a sponge bath and paying $35 before even ordering a meal.

Kokiri is a new restaurant tucked inside Spa World in Centreville. Washington Post Food Critic Tom Sietsema reviews the unique 50 seat dining establishment in this week’s Washington Post Magazine.

“Its menu, with dishes displayed in photographs on yellow walls, is concise and there are no servers, only order-takers behind the counter,” reports Sietsema, who recommends the Seafood soup, the Spicy Tofu Soup and Pale Beef Short Ribs after a relaxing soak or scrub.

Sietsema gives Kokiri two stars.

WTOP’s Bob Madigan contributed to this report. Follow WTOP on Twitter.

(Copyright 2012 by WTOP. All Rights Reserved.)