One Bethesda original and a few restaurants with locations in Bethesda got some special recognition in this year’s Washington City Paper Food Issue.

Instead of rating favorite eateries, the publication decided to identify “50 must-try dishes,” dishes someone might go out of his or her way to get.

Freddy’s Lobster & Clams (4867 Cordell Ave.) is on the list with its Maine lobster roll, priced at either $18.50 or $19.95 with two sides:

Let’s get one thing straight: Lobster rolls are not meant to be eaten daintily with a small fork. A good lobster roll is a messy lobster roll, which is why the sandwiches at Freddy’s are sublime. Among the Bethesda seafood shack’s multiple variations, the classic warm lobster roll proves best because of its simplicity: just a heap of lobster meat drenched in melted butter and served in a toasted split-top bun. Why do these three ingredients work together so harmoniously? It’s all about temperature. Slap cold lobster meat mixed with mayonnaise on a toasted bun, as so many lobster–roll joints do, and your mouth gets confused. Add warm butter and lobster to the already-warm roll, and it’s bliss. When you do it right, there’s no need to get fancy, so put the Hellmann’s away already.

A few other Bethesda Row eateries with multiple locations in the D.C. area make the list.

The salted caramel gelato at Dolcezza (7111 Bethesda Lane) gets a shout-out. So does the coca con erizos de mar (or sea urchin) at Jaleo (7271 Woodmont Ave.) and the grilled halloumi cheese side dish for only $2.25 at Nando’s Peri-Peri (4839 Bethesda Ave.).

Photo via Freddy’s Lobster & Clams